Juniper, Shore (Juniperus conferta) ^


      see other junipers ; you’ll get even more needle die-back with needles that end up under wiring than you would with other junipers, but this species has longer and softer needles.    [Cupressaceae; Pinales]


Juniper, Procumben (Juniperus procumbens ‘Nana’) B,M,U ^

      junipers are NOT indoor bonsai ; pinch/pull off fat new buds on all junipers with fingers, not scissors (no matter how sharp they are, scissors press/crush the needles, which then turn brown — NOTE: on all junipers except Shimpaku and procumbens ‘Nana’, it is now felt to be O.K. to trim with scissors although brown ends will result: those ends will drop off in awhile and any remaining brown ends can be pinched off before a show); carefully pull off old brown needles; don’t overwater; wet the foliage fifteen minutes before working on; give all junipers plenty of light and fresh air, but protect smaller specimens from direct afternoon sun as necessary; do not bare-root junipers; grayish foliage could be severe injury from spider mites; foliage normally takes on purplish tinge during cooler winters; wilted or brown foliage will not revive; best pruning time here is February to March, and then again in October; best wiring time is in the autumn; best re-potting time is January to February.    [Cupressaceae; Coniferales]