Special Condition Key:
| A | prefers more acidic soil; try 1 Tablespoon white vinegar in 1 gal. water monthly |
| B | brown leaf tips indicate salt burn/salt build-up |
| C | subject to iron or manganese chlorosis (best iron source is Kerex®) |
| D | subject to random branch die-back (which may be due to wrong-timed pruning) |
| E | when established, you can give less water |
| F | frost-sensitive, so protect if a hard freeze is expected |
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I |
more adaptable for use as an indoor bonsai than other plants, but still requires a certain level of temperature, light and humidity in order to be healthy and to thrive |
| L | may drop some leaves when relocated or repotted |
| M | very attractive to spider mites, so hose-spray and keep in very good air-flow |
| P | pinch first set of leaves when opened, the next will be smaller in size |
| R | do not root prune if at all possible; never bare root this kind of plant |
| S | leaves sunburn/windburn easily, so provide shelter/protection |
| U | larger specimens can take full sun most of day here when established |
| W | bark is tender or branches are brittle, so wire carefully, if at all, to avoid scars and damage |
| X | Outside of a container, this is considered an invasive plant in some areas: err on the side of caution and discard this plant's clippings or a "dead" specimen in a trash bag, not just on the ground. |
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evergreen |
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deciduous/semi-deciduous |
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can bloom as bonsai |
| Note: Plants labeled as susceptible to chlorosis when grown in the ground should not have this problem in a container with a quality soil mix and regular fertilizer schedule. “Established” plants are firmly rooted and producing a good growth of new buds which have opened up into leaves. |
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GROUP III - Difficult at times
This Page Last Updated: July 6, 2006
Note: major review of these four groups is currently being undertaken
and will be completed and
published by the end of August 2008. Stay tuned.
| Trident Maple | (Acer buergeranum) | B,F,S % |
| a fast grower that likes water; watch closely if wired to avoid scarring; the leaves grow smaller under more/fuller sun; leaves wilt slightly if dry, but will be O.K. after prompt watering; leaf prune in August and September; the leaves change color in the winter; keep soil moist but not wet in cold weather; soap insecticides are said to be bad for these trees; other dry location recommended species are A. ginnala and A. monspessulanum [Aceraceae; Sapindales] |
| Japanese Boxwood | (Buxus microphylla japonica) | F ^* |
| prefers alkaline soil; be careful not to damage the shallow roots; needs a little winter chill; best bark texture can be found on 5 gallon+ size specimens; best time to trim is right before monsoon season starts in June or July; dig a hedge/landscape specimen when it is dormant and collect with as large of a rootball as possible, put in an oversized pot and let it recover for a year, doing light amount of trimming and thinning only; "Kingsville" is smallest-leaved variety available [Buxaceae; Euphorbiales] |
| Camellia | (Camellia sp.) | A,C,F,R,S,W ^* |
| some say needs a little winter chill (in 50's° F at night) for adequate flowering although is very frost-sensitive; prefers partial shade; do not fertilize when in bloom; feed every two to three weeks during growing season; hard prune during winter after flowering, then remove any spent flowers and trim to desired shape, though some say not easily shaped; CAN NOT be allowed to dry completely; increase watering during active growth, and when plant is in bloom; some growers recommend using R.O. water; very prone to scale, aphid bugs, red spider mites, sooty mold, and weevils; should be repotted every two to three years, always in early spring months, but make sure you use lime-free humus rich soil, as it does not tolerate lime well; Sasanqua varieties have the smallest blossoms [Theaceae; Theales] |
| Hornbeam | (Carpinus sp.) | % |
| shade the leaves and keep cool in summer; remove oversize leaves only; allow a small stump to remain when a branch is cut off, the stump will dieback [Betulaceae; Fagales] |
| Wintersweet | (Chimonanthus praecox) | W %* |
| buds back well on old wood, so "Clip & Grow" rather than wire; give afternoon shade [Calycanthaceae; Laurales] |
| Buttonwood | (Conocarpus erectus) | A,F,W |
| likes bright light, good air ciculation and consistent moisture; begin with fertilizing one to two weeks prior to repotting in order to fortify the tree for the rigors of the repotting, at the same time prune and wire the tree; repot and root prune in hottest part of summer (at least a month or month and a half more of warm nights and long days with lots of light aids strong root growth), remove twice as much top as root; be careful removing tree from the pot as the weight of soil can break the very fragile roots off at the base of the trunk; Malathion® or Diazinon® will defoliate within one week: if leaves drop, keep caring for -- can take quite a while to bounce back; try keeping in a water tray similar to caring for Bald Cypress ; as new leaves develop let them grow out to about five pairs of leaves, then cut off the three end leaves including the apex; never leave the apex on, unless you want the branch to get longer and fatter before developing secondary branches; always prune all branches -- any branches left uncut will divert energy from the rest of the tree, thereby growing faster at the expense of the pruned branches; to prune for thicker and more tapered branches, cut all the leaves off and leave the apex on; the rounder the leaf of the specimen, the better the leaf size reduces; to develop more tightly packed leaves cut them severely, cutting the petiole halfway between the branch and the leaf is the most effective method; unless the tree is weak, never leave a portion of the leaves on; do NOT do too much defoliation or branch removal late in the season -- a tree that was recently severely worked on is very susceptible to cold damage or death; sometimes these will "pout" in cool winters by wilting: before giving extra water be sure they really do need it; the same trees that "pout" in winter may also "pout" in summer heat; said to do better in winter if pot is positioned on top of a horticultural heating pad or propagation mat; copper wire has possible toxic effects on buttonwoods, especially if it cuts into the bark when left on too long; large trunks and branches will sprout roots if placed in a bucket of water in full sun, somewhere between a few weeks and many months new roots will emerge -- even branches broken or cut off and dying trees can be revived this way. [Combretaceae; Myrtales] |
| Fukien Tea | (Ehretia microphylla) | F,I,L ^ |
| give lots of light, but not direct sun; likes heat and humidity, but don’t keep too wet; repot in early to mid-summer; prefers Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water; needs very good air circulation, otherwise can be attractive to scale insects: fingernail scrape off what scale you can; soap insecticides are said to cause defoliation of these trees, so be careful; will die if exposed to slight frost or even a cold draft [Boraginaceae; Lamiales] |
| Gardenia | (Gardenia augusta) | M ^* |
| likes full sun; use blood meal as fertilizer; use fast-draining soil mix with lots of organic matter; keep crown of roots uncovered; subject to scale and spider mites; same plant as G. jasminoides ; "Radicans" is smallest-leaved variety available [Rubiaceae; Rubiales] |
| Jacaranda | (Jacaranda mimosifolia) | F % |
| keep soil uniformly moist throughout the year; yellow leaves dropping could be due to too much water; shrinking brown leaves could be due to dry root ball; can be vigorously root pruned and transplanted in the spring; shorten new shoots to one or two pairs of leaves after they have produced at least four or five pairs; regularly remove all large leaves [Bignoniaceae; Scrophulariales] |
| California Juniper | (Juniperus californica) | D,M,U ^ |
| see other junipers above ; if you get one on a dig, give it plenty of time to re-establish strong growth before you start to prune, a soil heater wire especially during winter can significantly improve the survival and regrowth of a dug specimen, don't give more than a couple of hours of direct morning sun until it's putting out lots of new growth, may need up to a year to reacclimate to full sun exposure, use a very loose soil mix, keep foliage misted and bagged (much moisture is absorbed through the foliage), addition of Superthrive TM is recommended; will shed about 30% of its foliage during May and June, so better to prune in late summer or early fall [Cupressaceae; Coniferales] |
| Creosote / Greasewood | (Larrea tridentata) | M,R,U ^* |
| pinch buds, don't cut them; this plant is difficult to establish, but then hardy; roots grow slowly; it actually likes and does well with more water than you'd expect; trimming in the autumn may encourage spring blossoms; needs to be wired once or twice a year to keep the small branches horizontal, best in autumn, then remove in late October or November; wild-dug specimens can be large-trunked but very iffy in surviving: try to get as much of rootball as possible, plant in large/over-size container, and give it time; recommended digging is right after a rain anytime of year [Zygophyllaceae; Sapindales] |
| Liquidambar / Sweet Gum | (Liquidambar sp.) | C,S % |
| can be used instead of Japanese Maple; prefers a neutral or slightly acid soil mix; remove all large terminal buds from the branches in the spring to encourage side buds; repot less often; can throw occasional large/disproportioned leaves; give as much sun as possible to set up good autumn coloring; you don't have to leaf prune this plant [Altingiaceae; Hamamelidales] |
| Magnolia | (Magnolia sp.) | %* |
| leaves are disproportionately large, but the flowers make this tree a worth-while bonsai; prune after flowers start to wither; cut the top off the plant and a number of buds will sprout below; branch placement not always good; M. stellata said to be best for bonsai [Magnoliaceae; Magnoliales] |
| Barbados Cherry | (Malpighia glabra) | A,C,F,I ^ |
| prefers high humidity and rich soil mix; water well to flush out salts; likes a lot of light; one older report says Diazinon® is potentially harmful, so use with extreme caution on this plant [Malpighiaceae; Polygalales] |
| Crab Apple | (Malus sp.) | %* |
| fertilize once in the spring; if you fertilize during the summer it could dehydrate the plant; might show a little windburn on the leaves; needs a winter chill to do well and develop flower buds; the flowers develop out of last year's growth; needs full-day filtered sun; water only when showing wilt: watering every day unnecessarily can quickly kill the plant due to root rot; prefers being in a deeper pot for cool roots; needs a period of freezing weather to stay healthy and look its best; keep soil away from direct contact with the bark of the trunk; can be a very fast grower; keep upwind from junipers or keep as far away as possible from junipers -- bonsai or landscape specimens -- because junipers can spread rust infection to crab apples [Rosaceae; Rosales] |
| Heavenly Bamboo | (Nandina domestica) | C ^* X |
| wiring is seldom used with; looks best in group plantings; root sprouts prolifically; remove the oldest stems to prune; the buds tend to come out a few inches below the chop and at a rather sudden angle, so it's hard to get a tree without sudden zags in it, can get several sprouts, but they're as likely as not to all be on the same side; prune the top to get lower growth; leaves change color in the autumn; a chill brings out best color; do not let dry out [Berberidaceae; Ranunculales] |
| Eldarica or Goldwater Pine | (Pinus eldarica) | R ^ |
| see other pines above [Pinaceae; Coniferales] |
| Japanese Black Pine | (Pinus thunbergii) | B,R ^ |
| give abundant organic fertilizer in the spring and summer, including foliar feedings; requires much light; repot young specimens every two or three years, older specimens every seven to ten years; learn about proper candle and needle pinching before attempting to do so; leave all growth on an immature tree through the summer, then cut long growth off in October, repeat this several years until the trunk and branches are large enough, then start trimming candles and long growth in April/May to push out a second smaller set of needles in a single year; mist the needle ends with cold water right after cutting them to slow non-salt browning of ends; needle reduction can be achieved by reducing the amount of water given to the tree in the spring and by regulating the flow of energy throughout the growing season; prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil; California soil mix: 1/3 hard Akadama, 1/3 lava, 1/3 pumice with 5% decomposed granite and 5% charcoal, all washed and screened down to 1/4 inch; do not overwater, especially in spring and summer -- allow soil to ALMOST dry out in between waterings, and then thoroughly rewater [Pinaceae; Coniferales] |
| Pistachio | (Pistache sp.) | F,W,U % |
| keep soil constantly moist, but not saturated; wire in late summer or early fall [Anacardiaceae; Sapindales] |
| Yew Pine / Buddhist Pine | (Podocarpus macrophyllus) | C,F,S ^ |
| slow growing, but still only leave wire on trunk and branches for just 2 to 3 months; gray needles mean the plant has been getting too much water; prefers slightly moist soil with adequate drainage; does not like its roots disturbed, and may decline in health some time after it is repotted [Taxodiaceae; Coniferales] |
| Purple-leaf Plum | (Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea') | %* |
| most Prunus (peach, plum, cherry, apricot, almond, etc.) species seem to have short lives of only a few years as bonsai here; possibly deeper pots will help; Prunus are fairly difficult to root from cuttings and need a stronger rooting hormone that most of us can find in the garden shops; this is the hardiest Prunus here; gorgeous in bloom with white petals against a few green leaves before they turn purplish; do NOT use lime sulphur on; susceptible to aphids [Rosaceae; Rosales] |
| Oak | (Quercus sp.) | % |
| NEVER leaf prune or defoliate oaks; prefer deeper pots because they root deeply; leaf burn on edges indicates hard water salts, so use Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water; can be bare-rooted when dormant; some oaks have dark brown roots, which are healthy but not the expected light color; cut tap root only if tree already has a good-sized ball of fine feeder roots [Fagaceae; Fagales] |
| Indian Hawthorne | (Raphiolepis indica) | * X |
| [Rosaceae; Rosales] |
| Rhapis / Lady palm | (Rhapis excelsa) | I ^ |
| a slow grower; wiring not used with; best with some shade [Palmaceae; Arecales] |
| Rosemary | (Rosmarinus officinalis) | E,M,R,U ^* |
| do not let go dry; a fast grower: keep pruned; repot in January or February; pale green leaves are dying/dead and will never regrow, plus that particular stem is dead also; in Phoenix seems to have a short lifespan of only a couple of years when potted [Labiatae; Lamiales] |
| Serissa / Snow Rose | (Serissa foetida) | A,F,I,L,M,R ^* |
| likes humidity of 65%+, but don’t overwater; wait to water until one leaf turns yellow or dull; signs of overwatering include a sudden loss of leaves, wilting leaves and flowers, and lack of growth; over-watering rescue could take place by putting damaged tree in a nursery container with 50% grit, 30% Perlite, and 20% compost, watering and then putting in a corner: good results should start in a couple of weeks if the tree is not dead; high humidity when flowering said to discolor petals; indoors keep cool; give as much light as possible, but not too much direct sun; similar care and feeding as African violets; can be difficult to shape; remove suckers from base, or train them as smaller members of a grove planting; bugs can become a major problem without excellent air circulation around; leaves turn black and fall off with stunted growth if winter temps go below 55° F; strong Nitrogren fertilizer said to cause black leaves also; very prone to drop leaves when stressed, including getting a change in lighting or temperature; continuous pruning seems to weaken the plant; similarly, only allow one flowering per year and remove emerging blossoms after first flowering is past; wire before watering; wire marks said to grow/fill out O.K.; will bud back on old wood; hold off root pruning as long as possible (and then be aware that cut roots normally emit a rank odor), repot into a larger container if necessary; if tree drops its leaves in autumn or winter, cut back watering and carefully continue limited watering -- has been known to bud again as late as May and be healthy; softwood cuttings said to root easily in spring or summer [Rubiaceae; Rubiales] |
| Australian Bush Cherry | (Syzygium paniculatum) | B,D,F,I ^ |
| accepts low light levels, but does better when brighter; prune lightly regularly; let soil dry slightly before watering; it is the same plant as Eugenia paniculatum [Myrtaceae; Myrtales] |
| Tamarisk / Salt Cedar | (Tamarix chinensis) | W |
| very susceptible to scale (leaves start to turn yellow -- use Malathion® immediately); brittle wood; cuttings root very easily; likes lots of water [Tamaricaceae; Violales] |
| Cape Honeysuckle | (Tecomaria capensis) | D,E,F,U ^* |
| trunk very slow -- seemingly slower than most other types we use -- to fatten in pot, so best to start with as large a specimen as possible; fast growth spurts; needs to be cut back strongly once or twice a year to hold shape, some dieback might follow [Bignoniaceae; Scrophulariales] |
| Yellow Oleander | (Thevetia nereifolia) | F ^* |
| [Apocynaceae; Gentianales] |
| Zelkova / Japanese Gray-Bark Elm | (Zelkova serrata) | S % |
| treat similarly as you would a Chinese elm, but this species is less forgiving; may be the last type of plant to bud out in the spring, so don't give up; when trimming the fine branches at the end of limbs, trim the end of each limb or branch as a unit so that the outline of the tree is not smooth but consists of many small sections of foliage that are smooth locally [Ulmaceae; Urticales] |
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